Hi,Thanks to pointers where to look on the web, valuable info in other posts and some sunny weather, I got to fit the DRL's today. It took a bit longer than planned due to (a) a hail shower half way through which meant I had to pick up all the tools and run for cover, and (b) taking so many photos's for this post. I have posted about 50% of what I took as some of them were not particularly helpful. The photos were taken with my Samsung S3 so sorry if a couple are blurred, it does not have very good macro function!Anyway, down to the photo-history of the fitting.Picture 1 - What came in the kitPicture 2 - Added the fuse / power take off adapter. Warning, BOTH fuse slots have to be filled, even if you use a spare connector in the fuse box where no fuse existed before - I know why now, but it took a while to fathom out as I thought I did not have an "ign on" connection at first.Picture 3 - The Fuse Box - where we are tapping into the power.Picture 4 - Where the wire will go into the area under the bonnet. This is a view from looking up into the door jam from the passenger side. The light you can see is coming from a gap up by the left hand bonnet hinge. The padding you can see is soft foam and is easily moved slightly yo get the wire through.Picture 5 - Inside the fuse box after the cover is removed. The big fuses you can see are for my Sunroof (see other posts if you are interested in that mod). Picture 6 - I am going to use the top right empty fuse position with 5amp fusesPicture 7 - Fuse doubler in place (with both fuse positions filled) and the wire up under the bonnet wired in. Note - This has insulation tape around it as it is under cover and well protected. I use amalgamating tape, not insulation tape when covering joints where they are exposed. Worth paying a few bob for a roll of this - tightly wound around the join, over-lapping by half the width of the tape. In 10 minutes, the tape sets and is waterproof and (nearly) impossible to remove.Photo 8 - The wire coming out by the bonnet hinge - right hand side looking at the Juke from the front.Picture 9 - The wire connected and tucked behind one of the plastic grommets - See next picture for cut-outs to stop chaffing. Picture 10 - Stop your grommet chaffing!Picture 11 - Tidy the wiring up and put a piece of gaffer tape to stop the wire moving. I only had silver tape, but will replace by black tape after a visit to Halfords. Mind you, it shows up nicely for the photos . . . . Picture 12 - Oops - forgot the small cut out on the fuse box door to stop it pinching the wire.Picture 13 - the bracket for the DRL. It is held with a sticky pad (numberplate pad) but I also put in a couple of self-tappers (belt and braces!)Picture 14 - No metal coat-hangers in our house, so had to use a garden cane. There is NO WAY of getting the wire up to the passenger side of the car as it is filled with tubes and bit and pieces. I could see daylight but no way to get an arm down to snag a wire.Picture 15 - And tug (gently . . . )Picture 16 - Wire pulled up to the top and taped to adjacent wiring trunking. Note - to keep the wiring tidy, I platted the wires together which keeps them nicely together and also quite stiff, so no flopping around.Taking a break here - more in the next post.
jthspace2013-04-27 16:50:10
jthspace2013-04-27 16:50:10
