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Hi,Thanks to pointers where to look on the web, valuable info in other posts and some sunny weather, I got to fit the DRL's today. It took a bit longer than planned due to (a) a hail shower half way through which meant I had to pick up all the tools and run for cover, and (b) taking so many photos's for this post. I have posted about 50% of what I took as some of them were not particularly helpful. The photos were taken with my Samsung S3 so sorry if a couple are blurred, it does not have very good macro function!Anyway, down to the photo-history of the fitting.Picture 1 - What came in the kitPicture 2 - Added the fuse / power take off adapter. Warning, BOTH fuse slots have to be filled, even if you use a spare connector in the fuse box where no fuse existed before - I know why now, but it took a while to fathom out as I thought I did not have an "ign on" connection at first.Picture 3 - The Fuse Box - where we are tapping into the power.Picture 4 - Where the wire will go into the area under the bonnet. This is a view from looking up into the door jam from the passenger side. The light you can see is coming from a gap up by the left hand bonnet hinge. The padding you can see is soft foam and is easily moved slightly yo get the wire through.Picture 5 - Inside the fuse box after the cover is removed. The big fuses you can see are for my Sunroof (see other posts if you are interested in that mod). Picture 6 - I am going to use the top right empty fuse position with 5amp fusesPicture 7 - Fuse doubler in place (with both fuse positions filled) and the wire up under the bonnet wired in. Note - This has insulation tape around it as it is under cover and well protected. I use amalgamating tape, not insulation tape when covering joints where they are exposed. Worth paying a few bob for a roll of this - tightly wound around the join, over-lapping by half the width of the tape. In 10 minutes, the tape sets and is waterproof and (nearly) impossible to remove.Photo 8 - The wire coming out by the bonnet hinge - right hand side looking at the Juke from the front.Picture 9 - The wire connected and tucked behind one of the plastic grommets - See next picture for cut-outs to stop chaffing. Picture 10 - Stop your grommet chaffing!Picture 11 - Tidy the wiring up and put a piece of gaffer tape to stop the wire moving. I only had silver tape, but will replace by black tape after a visit to Halfords. Mind you, it shows up nicely for the photos . . . . Picture 12 - Oops - forgot the small cut out on the fuse box door to stop it pinching the wire.Picture 13 - the bracket for the DRL. It is held with a sticky pad (numberplate pad) but I also put in a couple of self-tappers (belt and braces!)Picture 14 - No metal coat-hangers in our house, so had to use a garden cane. There is NO WAY of getting the wire up to the passenger side of the car as it is filled with tubes and bit and pieces. I could see daylight but no way to get an arm down to snag a wire.Picture 15 - And tug (gently . . . )Picture 16 - Wire pulled up to the top and taped to adjacent wiring trunking. Note - to keep the wiring tidy, I platted the wires together which keeps them nicely together and also quite stiff, so no flopping around.Taking a break here - more in the next post.
jthspace2013-04-27 16:50:10
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
FINAL STAGEPicture 17 - The lights are connected to the power feed and the earth wire is connected to one of the bolts holding the front wing on. Loosen the bolt a couple of turns, with a long stripped length of wire, make two or three turns around the bolt and retighten the bolt. On any bare wire or conenction, I wiped the wire through the vaseline that was smeared over the battery terminals. This helps keep corrosion down to a minimuma nd should mean your connections stay trouble-free.Picture 18 - The final shots. I connected the wire that turns off the DRL's to the sidelight plug. I gently pulled the plug apart, slipped the DRL wire into the socket of the blue wire and pushed the plug together again. This trapped the DRL trigger wire between the socket and spade. This saved cutting into the wire.jthspace2013-04-27 17:03:09
 

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Nice one Jeff,
I fitted the led mirror covers today which also have two functions , they have a white/blue led which can feed from sidelights or interior light and the orange flashing indicators. Basically if they are wired to the sidelights, they switch off when indicating and turn back on when indicators off..This is how I've configured them this afternoon.
I think I'll wait till the local constabulary pull me up, and then fit the relay, and reconfigure the mirror covers to the interior light Jukeov2013-04-28 09:50:32
 

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Just followed this guide chapter and verse - absolutely great !
I'm sure others will benefit - but thanks from me in any case.
My only deviation was to drill a 1mm hole in the existing fuse and poke my wire through for the live feed (too tight to buy extra bits)
 

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tk juke wrote:
the fuse power adaptor were from please

Not what purists would like, but I did this:

Strip a wire

Drill 1mm hole in fuse

Poke wire through making sure there is still a gap between sides of the fuse

Tidy it up

Just bang the fuse in and "Bob's yer Auntie"CR4ZYHORSE2013-05-18 22:15:53
 

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In my humble opinion, they look rather nice...

And with the bonnet deflector and a full set of new bulbs, the front end is almost done
- just need the grille mesh and I'll be happy.
 

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i have wired my drl's up as shown and they work a treat, however i changed the way the wire is routed from the fuse box, i ran the wire through the back of the fuse box underneath the dash board and through a rubber bung in the bulkhead behind the glove box straight into the engine bay.
 

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trev wrote:i have wired my drl's up as shown and they work a treat, however i changed the way the wire is routed from the fuse box, i ran the wire through the back of the fuse box underneath the dash board and through a rubber bung in the bulkhead behind the glove box straight into the engine bay.
how did u feed the wire through any pictures?
 
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